Accommodation

Hatchling accomodation

The physical requirements of hatchlings mirror that of their adult counterparts exactly, albeit on a somewhat smaller scale. They need room to exercise and explore, a diggable substrate to create microclimates, access to shade and shelter, sufficient warmth and exposure to UVB. They also need protection from predators.
In order to achieve these conditions I, along with many other keepers, make extensive use of both indoor and outdoor accomodation, moving the hatchlings from one to another according to the prevailing weather conditions.

Indoor housing

One of the most effective ways of keeping hatchlings indoors is to build a "tortoise table". This is basically an open-topped wooden pen with low sides, incorporating an overhead framework , to which light fittings can be attatched.
The easiest method of constructing one of these is to adapt a "work bench" , which can be found at most D I Y stores. These are ideal because they are at a manageable and convenient height due to them being on legs. Simply cut some 6" width wooden panels to fit around the top of the bench and screw them on, to make a shallow pen. Then attatch a couple of narrow uprights, joined by a cross piece, to provide a framework at a height of around 12" from the bench surface. Basking lamps and UVB lighting can then be safely attached to the cross piece and the wiring can run neatly along one of the uprights using cable-ties. The UVB flourescent tubes should be of the same width as the crosspiece to ensure the rays reach across the whole length of the enclosure.
Adjust the positioning and the wattage of the basking lamps to create a hot spot of 35*c at one end of the enclosure only. This is to allow a steady decreasing temperature gradient from one end to the other. The tortoises will use this temperature gradient for thermoregulating their body temperatures, by moving in and out of the basking area of their own free will, as and when required. Adequate air temperatures of around 20*c can easily be achieved by simple backgroud heating provided from a centrally heated room. All lighting should be turned off at night, simulating a natural day to night temperature fluctuation.
A 50/50 mix of soft "play pit" sand and loamy top-soil ,along with some gravel, should be used to form the basis of the substrate, at an average depth of 2". This is required to provide the hatchlings with suitable microclimates, attained by burrowing into the substrate. The exact mixed ratio of sand to soil can be adjusted to the requirements of the particular species being kept. Testudo Kleinmanni, Furculachelys Nabeulensis and Libyan origin Testudo Graeca all do particularly well if kept on very sandy substrates to match their natural geographical locations.
Additional features like "hollow log hideouts", rocks, artificial plants, edible plants and water bowls can then be added. However, one must be careful not to place any features or tricky terrain near the basking hot spot incase a hatchling falls onto it's back. They can very quickly dehydrate and die if up-ended under a heat source.

Outdoor housing

Before building an outdoor enclosure it is worth mentally splitting your garden into sections, then try to consider what each of these sections may have to offer.
Because hatchlings have a tiny body mass, they can gain or lose heat rapidly in accordance with their surroundings. It is therefore imperative to offer plenty of covering shade and shelter from the elements. An ideal place would be in an area which receives all-day sun, or as much sun as your particular location permits, with very well drained soil, perhaps on a slope. It is also worth taking into consideration it's location with regard to possible theft from an opportunist thief.
Once you have chosen a sunny, well drained spot, a simple wooden pen enclosure can be built , bearing in mind that some species are incredible climbers or diggers, so extra precaution may be needed to prevent escape. Glass or polycarbonate sheeting can be used to form a simple open-sided cold-frame to enhance basking opportunities. Then, as with the indoor set-up, water dishes, hideouts, shelters and attractive features can be added, along with a whole mix of edible planting like dandelions, sowthistle, clover and plantain.
The final requirement for an outdoor pen is a predator-proof lid, as cats, foxes, hedgehogs, and the occasional heron, to name a few, have all been known to readily prey upon a hatchling. A removeable lid constructed from strong wire meshing, held in place with a simple wooden framework, securely fixed to the pen, will suffice for this purpose.

Inappropriate accomodation

Do not attempt to keep Mediterranean tortoises in small, poorly ventilated housing, for keeping tortoises in "fish tanks" or other glass or plastic vivaria is a certain guarantee of ill health for your charges. The relative humidity created in these environments is far too high for these animals. Amongst other ailments, this primarily will lead to respiratory problems. Furthermore a tank enviroment will hamper the temperature gradient, essential for the tortoises' thermoregulation requirements. This in turn increases the chances of kidney disease.
Tortoises need natural exposure to sunlight if they are to thrive, so don't be tempted to house a tortoise indoors for extended periods of time, nor should they ever be kept in flats or apartments that don't have access to an outdoor garden.